Horseshoe to Horseshoe Day 18: September 23, 2009
"I redeemed myself today. I'm not the quitter I thought I was the last time. I even went the extra mile. But then, this time the weather was on my side."
The curious kayaker got out of bed much earlier than the times before. He checked the weather for the Thumb, most importantly the wind direction. It was mostly from the south, but forecasted to be from the northwest later. He liked the sound of a south wind. It would be at his back when paddling, but a northwest wind would be pushing him toward the shore. There also was a 50% chance of a thunderstorm.
With a new digital waterproof camera, and a fully charged Forerunner gps, he began driving to the Thumb in the dark. It was the first day of autumn, but the temperature was expected to reach the seventies. He made good time and was cabling Swiftee to a stairway leading to a beach around eight o'clock. The stairway was on the easement of Russell Drive homeowners. When he quit last time he got permission from property owners, Tim and Pam Quinn, to use the easement when he continued his journey.
He drove the van and planted it at McGraw County Park, where he meant to finish at the last time. Getting to McGraw by kayak would be less than a five-mile paddle. After what happen the last time, he thought kayaking five miles or less would be a wise plan. Then, after seeing the paddling conditions, he would decide whether to go farther.
He finished running back to the easement from McGraw Park and was in the water by 9:30. He was eighty miles from home yet benefiting from one of his earliest starts ever. It was very humid, no use changing into a dry shirt. Just the thought of a dry shirt over his drenched sticky body made him shudder. He left his saturated running shirt on and pushed off.
The waves may have been a foot high but there were no white caps like the last time. And, they were in his favor, striking the rear of the kayak at 8 o'clock.
He set his navigational gps to Little Oak Point, 0.9-mile away, and was there in fifteen minutes. The paddling speed was sixteen minutes a mile; he was a happy river paddler once again, for that pace was comparable to paddling on a river with average current.
He reset his bearing to the next tip of land, Hat Point, which the gps readout said was three miles away. He wondered why it had an unusual name. From looking at the point a mile away, it looked as though he could see a large pleasure craft with a cover moored there. As he approached, the boat morphed into a sedimentary rock formation. The curious kayaker was struck with awe, for outcroppings of bedrock in Michigan's southern peninsula are far and in between because of all the glacial till.
"I got the impression Hat Point was named after the formation, it didn't look like a hat to me, but it had been crumbling, so at one time maybe it did. Good thing it wasn't left for me name. If so, people today would be calling it Chris Craft Point."
Past the point, the van was about a half mile away. Riley arrived there but was not done. With the easygoing waves he was ready for another four to five miles, especially since it was only 11:00 am.
He cabled Swiftee to a tree and prepared to move the van down to the next stop but he could not get out of the park. M-25 was being paved and the paving crew was blocking the park entrance.
He decided it was a good time for a snack. He whipped a piece of carrot cake from the cooler and washed it down with Lost Sailor IPA. Soon after, a flagman permitted him to exit the park and head north.
The next public beach off M-25 would be at Port Crescent State Park campground. He went there and looked for decent landing spot. While at the campground, he looked at a map he saw another park up the road a mile. Before making the final decision he decided to check it out. The map named it Jenks County Park, but the entrance signage stated it was a Jenks State Roadside Park. That didn't matter to him, what made his decision to park the van there was the distance by kayak. From where he'd left Swiftee, McGraw Park, to the Port Crescent campground, it was less than three miles. With good wave conditions he was looking to go further, and Jenks Park was closer to four miles.
By foot it was four and a half miles getting back to the kayak; the same distance he had ran previously. Before launching he set gps coordinates to Jenks Park. He had the good sense before running to boot up the laptop in the van and write down the coordinates from the map program.
Once kayaking he noticed the gps stating the distance to Jenks was only 3.5 miles. He checked the distance for the next point, Flat Rock, using the gps. It was 4.8 miles, and from there to the town of Port Austin, it was only another two miles or less. He began doing some calculations in his head. He figured that paddling less than 20-minutes a mile he could be in Port Austin in a couple of hours. Of course it meant he'd be beyond his van and would have to run once more. He estimated the run back would be less than the two previous 4.5 mile runs. He decided to go for it and left the gps setting to Flat Rock.
Kayaking from McGraw Park to Flat Rock, would be his longest point-to-point paddle ever. It also meant he'd be venturing over a mile away from shore. Months ago when trying to decide whether kayaking the Great Lakes in such a small boat was plausible, he vowed to always hug the shoreline. Well…
"The mental images I get in my head when taking on challenges are always scarier than when I get out and actually do it. Take drubbling for instance, in my head, the balls are constantly getting away and people are tripping over them, plus I feel closed in by runners, claustrophobic. In reality it's never that way at all. I'm glad I don't always let mental images rule my actions. I believe many people don’t take on new challenges because they can't get past the initial mind games going on in there heads.
"Saying all that does not mean I throw caution to the wind. In this case the wind making the waves had much to do with taking a chance. The risk was minimal today, so I went for it. If I saw anything looking like a storm cloud - and thunderstorms were forecasted - I would have made a 90o turn and headed for the shore. There is a Great Lakes freighter song by the late Stan Rogers that I sang while out there today, White Squall. Two lined from the lyrics are, 'Well, I told that kid a hundred times don't take the Lakes for granted. They go from calm to a hundred knots so fast they seem enchanted.'
"I did try to check the depth once while out there. Surprisingly, the Humminbird gadget did work momentarily, but only to say that I was in water over 20-feet deep. It was set only to read depths less than that, so who knows how deep it really was. Although capsizing and trying to get to the distant shore was never far from my mind. One rogue wave is all it would take."
When more than half-way to Flat Rock from McGraw Park, the kayaker looked into the depths of the water and saw reflections of clouds in the water. Upon looking at the sky there were no clouds above him. He thought he was in water twenty feet deep, but looking again, it was not cloud reflections he was viewing. Less than five feet below Swiftee he saw bottom, and not sand, but sandstone? Not knowing bedrock to be in the area, and seeing the bottom blanketed with large sheets of flat rock, again the curious kayaker again went into a state of awe.
The depth soon changed and the vision of sheet rock disappeared, but it wasn't a half-mile later, and near the next point, that again sheet rock was seen below the boat.
Closing in on Flat Rock Point, Riley could see why it was so named. A massive rock less than a hundred feet from shore stuck out of the water making an island of about 150 feet in diameter. Much of the surface was covered with yellow-orange lichen.
"Just last week I was in the U.P. hiking Pictured Rocks National Shoreline. This formation though not as grandiose, is comparable geologically. Living less than ninety miles away I never knew this sort of shoreline existed on the Thumb shoreline. I later found a brochure about Port Austin, and in it was a picture of another island rock formation located it the tip of the Thumb. The formation, Turnip Rock, looks to be smaller than Flat Rock, but more picturesque. I'm anxious to see it and will be passing it on my next leg."
From Flat Rock Point to Port Austin, a distance of a mile and a half, most of the shoreline was rocky and several rocks protruded out of the water.
Bedrock bottom was all the curious kayaker saw from Flat Rock Point to town. Swiftee glided over it, even scraping it a couple times.
When he landed at a beach adjacent to the pier he began looking for a place to secure the kayak. When doing so a sightseeing couple in there late sixties began asking him questions about the area. They were from St Joseph, on the Lake Michigan side of the state. They had arrived following the shoreline from Port Huron. They remarked how different their Michigan sunset shoreline was compared to the sunrise side, saying theirs side was less rocky, and more sandy.
"I told them that that would soon change, told them the west side of the Thumb was like the west side of the state; soon they would be seeing sand dunes at Port Crescent and beautiful beaches in the Caseville area."
"They asked where I was from, when I told them Clio they began naming people I knew. One was Jim Waner, who I've known for twenty-five years. Just about every Clioian knows him; he is one of the city commissioners. The couple, Chuck and Sally Salvano, were high school classmates of Waner many-moons-ago in St. Joseph.
"I kept my distance from the nice couple thinking I had to smell. I was still wearing the shirt I'd run in twice, not to mention kayaked in. Now, I was getting ready to run for the third time in it!"
Riley said goodbye to Chuck and Sally, secured Swiftee to a tree near the marina, and headed off on foot to find Jenks Park and his red Pontiac van.
The last running leg was three mile, making the total running distance 12 miles for the day. The total of the two kayaking segments was 11 miles.
